Biking the Yamal Peninsula in north-western Siberia? Sounds like a joke? Not quite, because even though most of the area consists of swampy and impassable tundra, there is a way through for people with an off-road bicycle. Russian Gazprom has built a 572-km long railway through the peninsula (the world's northernmost railway). In the summer of 2015 I rode my fatbike along this railway – from Obskaya in the south to the Bovanenkovo gas field in the north. A fatbike is a kind of mountain bike, but with very wide tires, making it possible to force difficult terrain. This was truly needed when the dirt road along the railway stopped after 250 km. Along the way I passed the sensational Yamal crater (photos 36-37), and later I parked the bike to join the local reindeer herders - as fellow passenger in a weird terrain vehicle and as guest at a gathering on the tundra where the herders were competing in reindeer racing, lassoing and other traditional disciplines.
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 First day and departure from Labytnangi |
 Starting point for the road and railway to Bovanenkovo and the gas fields (538 km) |
 Meeting on the road |
 Russisk trucker |
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 A grocery store after approximate 100 km |
 Evening light at the tundra |
 A rare road sign |
 Perhaps a future lunar vehicle? |
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 The chef (Oxana) in Pajutas canteen |
 Bridge after Pajuta |
 Finally some company.. |
 Rainbow over Station 220 km |
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 The bridge over Yorkutajakha |
 Meeting with the shopkeeper and my friend Alexander Sokolov at Station 220 km |
 The road was not always passable |
 Break along the railway (NOT an attempt of suicide) |
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 On average a train passed by once a day |
 A quiet celebration of the first 300 km |
 Road sign before the bridge crossing Yuribei River |
 Yuribei station where I was offered accommodation and good food from the canteen |
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 My ’hotel’ at Yuribei station |
 The 3.9 km long bridge across Yuribei River (the world's longest bridge north of the Arctic Circle) |
 I passed the Yuribei bridge on foot |
 Drainage pipes under the railway were a perfect stopover in the rain! |
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 The world's northernmost railway consists of only one track, and the maximum speed for train is 40 km/h |
 The weather and the light at the tundra changes all the time |
 No problems with the neighbors.. |
 There is a lot of water everywhere |
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 One of the countless railway bridges, which I passed on foot with my bike |
 Friendly people in one of the station houses, found with about 40 km intervals along the railway |
 The 500 km sign and close to the place where I left the railroad and hiked towards the Yamal Crater |
 The fatbike had trouble riding on the soft tundra |
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 Towards Yamal Crater. I pulled the bike across the tundra most of the way the first 10 km |
 Millions of black flies invade my tent |
 Ready to cross Mordyjakha River on my 2x25 km long trek towards the Yamal Crater |
 The Yamal Crater. The hole was about 60 m deep when it came into existence in the summer 2014, but one year later there was only about 10 m down to the water surface |
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 Scientists expect that the crater soon will be completely filled with water |
 On my way back through willow scrub towards the railway |
 Bovanenkovo Station, the final station of the original railroad |
 A much needed meal at the Bovanenkovo station |
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 The crew at Bovanenkovo station gave me a working waistcoat from the Russian Railways |
 Railway workers close to Bovanenkovo |
 Friendly people at the last station before the 'village' Bovanenkovo |
 The last 15 km to the 'village' Bovanenkovo were completed on concrete roads |
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 The Bovanenkovo 'village' |
 The Bovanenkovo 'village' |
 My good friend Alexander Sokolov |
 Freshly slaughtered reindeer (aibat) with blood and raw entrails |
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 Almost everything can be eaten.. |
 Cut off reindeer antlers exchanged for food |
 Perhaps a future reindeer herder? |
 Boiling tea in the nomads' tent |
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 A ride on the tundra in a strange vehicle ('Strannik') |
 Visiting a local herder on the way |
 Skinned reindeer calf |
 Baydaratskya Bay (a part of the Kara Sea) |
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 Inspection of the 'Strannik' in late evening |
 Smaller tent (tjum) belonging to the men who are alone by the sea with the reindeers |
 In this way, it’s impossible for the dogs to reach the meat |
 Picnic on the tundra |
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 Brothers |
 On the way to work |
 What happens on the tundra ..? |
 Herding dog at work |
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 On the way home after having inspected the reindeers |
 By the sea, there are fewer mosquitoes and therefore more comfortable for both animals and humans |
 Sunset over Baydaratskaya Bay |
 The 'Strannik' in trouble |
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 The herders gather the reindeers daily in front of the tent |
 Cleansing wounds on the reindeers' legs |
 Cooking reindeer soup |
 You don’t only see grass at the tundra |
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 Come on! |
 On the way home after having inspected the reindeers |
 Mist in the morning |
 Early photo session at 4 am |
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 Snowy Owl on the railroad |
 Ready for gathering on the tundra (organized by the local state farm) |
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 The mayor arrives at the gathering on the tundra |
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 A landscape of contrasts |
 An interview by the local TV station during the gathering |
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 Information from the local administration to the reindeer nomads |
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 Reindeer racing |
 Reindeer racing |
 Reindeer racing |
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 Reindeer racing |
 Watching reindeer race |
 Reindeer racing |
 Reindeer racing |
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 Competition in lasso throwing |
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 The 4th brigade of Panaevsk has thousands of reindeers |
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 On the way to the 3rd brigade of Panaevsk in a Trekol – repairing the tire |
 Picnic on the tundra |
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 Drying fish |
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 My herding family whom I have known for 14 years |
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 Back on the road - and the challenges |
 To the south, the landscape becomes more hilly again |
 The Ural Mountains |
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 The most dangerous part of my trip were the first (and last) 10 km I rode between Labytnangi and Obskaya |
