Dansk  English
Ved Verdens Ende Gerner Thomsen Online
Gallery --> Revisiting Yamal


A rainy day in September: I am dropped off in the middle of the swampy, Siberian tundra, about 200 hundred kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. An unknown number of miles alone on foot and a reunion with the Nenets reindeer herding family that I got to know 18 years ago when I first visited Jamal Peninsula lie ahead. This is unquestionable the extreme outer edge of civilization having a crude and harsh climate – at this place it’s fair to say that people survive rather than live. And the reindeer nomads do it with intelligence and experience handed down over generations. The photo series shows the trip chronologically from start to end and goes via the nomads in the 3rd brigade before I meet my family in the 4th brigade.



The landscape at the edge of Jamal
- seen from the airplane

I'm dropped off on the tundra in a Russian Trekol

The first nomads I meet
on my way

A lonely overnight stay on the tundra
 

The old fellow throws a curious look
at my backpack

A graveyard from old time

The coffins are placed directly on
the ground

The graveyard is probably more
than 100 years old
 

In foggy weather I approach the group of nomads called 3rd brigade

3rd brigade has a visit from a
Russian merchant who changes
food for reindeer antlers

A grocery store on the tundra

Slaughtering a reindeer
 

Virtually everything from the
reindeer can be eaten

3rd brigade

3rd brigade - gathering the reindeers

3rd brigade - moving the camp in
a caravan
 

Putting up the nomads' tent
(called a chum)

White reindeers are highly
appreciated by the nomads

On the way home with water from
a nearby lake

Going on a fishing trip
 

3rd brigade

3rd brigade

Catching reindeers

3rd brigade
 

Drying reindeer meat

The nomads are using dogs
to gather the reindeers

3rd brigade

3rd brigade
 

3rd brigade

3rd brigade

Catching a reindeer calf (to be earmarked)

3rd brigade
 

Each family typically has 3-4 dogs

The women sew the clothes so even the smallest children can keep warm

Tea just before moving the camp
in a caravan

Reindeer skin to dry
 

Gathering the reindeers

3rd brigade

3rd brigade

The children seem to thrive well despite the harsh environment
 

A family of the 3rd brigade
that I lived with

Goodbye to 3rd brigade

4th brigade

4th brigade
 

Gathering reindeers in 4th brigade

Being together with mom

Future reindeer nomad

4th brigade
 

Gathering reindeers in 4th brigade

4th brigade

4th brigade

The father (left) in the 4th brigade, who I first met in 2001
 

4th brigade

4th brigade

Father and eldest son (with wife and child), whom I first met in 2001

4th brigade
 

Moving camp

Moving camp

4th brigade

Moving camp
 

Alisa with her child Pavel

Zhenja with his child Pavel

4th brigade

4th brigade
 

4th brigade

4th brigade

4th brigade

Making the reindeer skin soft
for sewing
 

Drinking tea with the father and his eldest son in the family I first met in 2001

Open fire in the middle of the chum

Zhenja with his reindeer team

A so called pingo on the tundra
 

Northern light

My tent on the tundra (bottom center)

It almost became winter,
before I was back

I got a 300 km long ride on the rivers heading back towards civilization
 

Sailing 300 km on the rivers

Goodbye to the driver and his assistent

© gernerthomsen.dk
about me | books & articles | gallery | contact